Hello!
We are in the process of choosing a supplier to build a house in Uppsala. (Nåntuna)
The plot is purchased from the municipality so we are not bound to any manufacturer.
Now to the question, according to the detailed plan we can only build 1,1/2 floors with a 38 degree roof pitch and a 3.5 m building height. This means we have to make a wider house (9 meters internal) to get a proper upper floor. We have been informed by Trivselhus & Myresjöhus that it must be built with Kerto beams for the upper floor to be stable. From another company that can build the house in woodwork for us, they have found out via Uppsala Trä that it is possible to build with that width without Kerto. I just watched "Fuskbyggarna" and started to think a bit about that part... It should be mentioned that this company has just built a house for my brother-in-law with super good results. (however, that house is entirely built of stone/leca so it is a bit different)
So, does anyone know?
We are in the process of choosing a supplier to build a house in Uppsala. (Nåntuna)
The plot is purchased from the municipality so we are not bound to any manufacturer.
Now to the question, according to the detailed plan we can only build 1,1/2 floors with a 38 degree roof pitch and a 3.5 m building height. This means we have to make a wider house (9 meters internal) to get a proper upper floor. We have been informed by Trivselhus & Myresjöhus that it must be built with Kerto beams for the upper floor to be stable. From another company that can build the house in woodwork for us, they have found out via Uppsala Trä that it is possible to build with that width without Kerto. I just watched "Fuskbyggarna" and started to think a bit about that part... It should be mentioned that this company has just built a house for my brother-in-law with super good results. (however, that house is entirely built of stone/leca so it is a bit different)
So, does anyone know?
What is the question? Kertubalkar have better strength and can be obtained over 5 m
Hi!
Yes, it ended up being a bit of a long explanation, but the question is:
How wide a house can you build without using kertu? (since kertu is significantly more expensive, we want to avoid it)
At the same time, we don't want to risk having a wobbly floor...
Yes, it ended up being a bit of a long explanation, but the question is:
How wide a house can you build without using kertu? (since kertu is significantly more expensive, we want to avoid it)
At the same time, we don't want to risk having a wobbly floor...
max 4m, then the deflection starts to be noticeable. The house width can be anything as long as there is some support every 4 meters. There are some solutions to brace a bouncy floor, but it also takes time to do this.
Kertu is more expensive, but oh so much more stable, for example, 45x300 gives minimal deflection over a 5m span.
So if you can afford it, kertu is preferable, as it also allows for different layout possibilities by placing load-bearing walls/beams in a different way than with regular timber.
Kertu is more expensive, but oh so much more stable, for example, 45x300 gives minimal deflection over a 5m span.
So if you can afford it, kertu is preferable, as it also allows for different layout possibilities by placing load-bearing walls/beams in a different way than with regular timber.
Thanks for the response! It's a bit interesting that Uppsala Trä has said that kertu is not needed...
The question is what the longest span of a beam will be in your proposed house and what dimension Uppsala plans to use. Structurally, it might not be a problem, but in terms of deflection, it might be. For my extension, I used kertu for the rafters in the vaulted ceiling and for about 90m2 of floor joists, all with a dimension of 45x300. It cost about 30,000, worth every penny, I think. In the re-flooring of the ground floor, 45x220 wooden joists would have sufficed in the kitchen, but I used kertu here too, feels like a concrete slab, despite a span of almost 4m.
I am quite novice so I'm not sure if this info gives you anything but. The house will be 14400 long and 9000 wide internally. As the floor plan is intended, there will be 2 openings in the load-bearing wall. One about 2 meters & one 4 meters. If that info gives you more knowledge, I don't know.
If it is around 30,000 there's no discussion but the construction company talked about around 200,000...
If it is around 30,000 there's no discussion but the construction company talked about around 200,000...
Your house needs at least one load-bearing wall (regardless of which beams are chosen) with the conditions you mentioned.
If you can place two load-bearing walls or an equivalent laminated wood beam or steel beam in suitable locations, there should be no problems with deflection in the intermediate floor. As pbengtsson writes, approximately a 4-meter span is the maximum with K24 timber.
But there might be a solution by significantly reinforcing the upper chords of the roof trusses, so the truss's struts can absorb forces from the floor. This essentially lifts the ends of the floor with the help of the truss. This could work in your case since you won't have living space all the way to the outer walls on the upper floor. I believe this is how it was calculated for our trusses, where the struts absorb some force, and then we have a 45x220 upright that would be placed against the struts to distribute point loads over several trusses.
Can you ask Uppsala Trä for an explanation of how they intend to solve the deflection problems?
If you can place two load-bearing walls or an equivalent laminated wood beam or steel beam in suitable locations, there should be no problems with deflection in the intermediate floor. As pbengtsson writes, approximately a 4-meter span is the maximum with K24 timber.
But there might be a solution by significantly reinforcing the upper chords of the roof trusses, so the truss's struts can absorb forces from the floor. This essentially lifts the ends of the floor with the help of the truss. This could work in your case since you won't have living space all the way to the outer walls on the upper floor. I believe this is how it was calculated for our trusses, where the struts absorb some force, and then we have a 45x220 upright that would be placed against the struts to distribute point loads over several trusses.
Can you ask Uppsala Trä for an explanation of how they intend to solve the deflection problems?
Mikael_L gave a good answer, and as mentioned, it is crucial how one solves the upper floor.martin_westin said:
But 200,000, sounds strange, I will try to verify my 30,000 so I'm not sitting here lying.
Call a lumberyard and inquire about the price per meter for 45x220 K24 and for kertubalk 45x220 so you know the difference.
www.moelven.se has dimensions and a simple calculation program so you can get a little more info.
If the house is approximately 14x9 m, you will need about 225m (25 pieces each 9m) of kertubalk if you place the beams with 60cc.
I lied a bit, 130kr/m + VAT without discount for kertu 45x300, so in your case 37,000.
Many thanks for all the answers! Hopefully, I'll become a bit wiser soon!!