I have just replaced doors and replastered walls at home, and now it's time for trim and moldings. I found rabbeted door trim with a 13mm rabbet, which fits perfectly against the drywall and frame. But it's not just a matter of cutting 45° angles all the way around like with a regular flat trim, right? Or is it that simple?

I would prefer to double-check with someone who knows because the trims weren't exactly super cheap ;)

Attached are images of the trims

A close-up of a white beveled door casing with a rabbet, placed on a wooden surface. Mitred wooden door casing with a rebate and label showing dimensions, placed on a wooden surface.
 
Just to be called as usual
 
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Grillen
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Heel molding, if you have installed regular flat molding, do it the same way, I usually measure where the corner will be on the standing one, check the angle against the frame and saw, then put the overlap on and mark, if you get 45 that's good, but it's not a golden rule that it will be so.
 
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Grillen
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No, getting everything at 45° is usually more or less impossible in older houses, but it was mostly to describe my problem or a potential solution to it.

I can't wrap my head around it if I miter as usual, but it's probably correct as you say, so I'll have to cut everything up during the week :)
 
ClasseClas
If you saw with the front side up, you need to place a 13mm spacer so that the piece lies flat/horizontally on the saw table.
 
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Grillen
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ClasseClas ClasseClas said:
If you miter with the fine side facing up, you'll need to place a 13mm spacer so that the strip lies flat/horizontally on the saw table.
Thanks for the tip. I didn't think that logically.
 
You may need to angle it the other way as well. If you're really particular. I can take pictures of my cuts tomorrow, if you all aren't already finished. :rofl:
 
I inspectah44 said:
You may also need to angle in the other direction. If you're really picky. I can take pictures of my cuts tomorrow, if you're not already finished. :rofl:
Feel free to post pictures. I will paint/wallpaper first so it will probably be earliest on Tuesday that I start with the trim around the doors.
 
I seem to remember that I couldn't cut without chipping no matter how I twisted and turned the fodret.
 
  • Close-up of a door frame joint showing a cut with splintered edges against a white wall background.
  • Close-up of a doorframe with visible splintering at a miter joint, showing difficulties in cutting without causing damage.
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B6304S1
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Thanks for the pictures.
I will probably take some foder and practice a bit. Will head out to buy a new fine-toothed blade for the mitre saw so I can only blame myself if there are any splinters ;)
 
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