long time reader, first time poster.
I have searched and searched and found some information, but nothing definitive.
I am going to build a pergola structure on the deck with dimensions that should handle a future light roof in snow zone 2 if we decide on it.
The whole framework will be 45x195 c24 pressure-treated at the same level with each other standing on 3 pieces of 115x115 pressure-treated laminated wood posts. So far so good. Both beams will also be 45x195.
The whole construction is approximately 8x3.7m with 10 joists between the beams.
The inner beam will be attached to the facade with construction screws (essve et-t) in the studs.
Then, the idea is that the joists should be attached to the inner beam. This is where the problem begins. I would preferably avoid ugly joist hangers.
I’m also considering a 50/50 notch or similar, but it seems difficult to achieve. Even a 45x45 on the underside and a notch in the joist has been considered, but aesthetically it's not appealing and traps dirt and water. Simpson strong tie also has its concealed beam hangers, but it seems to be too much hassle.
Does anyone have other ideas that I could consider? Or do you think pocket-hole screws with essve et-t 8.2x130 would work?
The simplest solution to the problem of unattractive beam shoes is to use attractive beam shoes. These can be relatively easily made from flat steel. A common solution is a 45x45 stud screwed into the inner support beam, on which you then place the joists (notched). The downside is that you weaken the joists at a point where they ideally shouldn't be weakened. In any case, you should calculate it. A third option is to screw some form of steel profile to the underside of the support beam, on which the joists can rest without notching.
The disadvantage of angled screwing in this situation is the poor precision.
Well, I've also thought in that direction with 45x45 and notching. But I think the disadvantages of slightly poorer load-bearing capacity and dirt/water accumulation outweigh it.
According to the timber guide, there should be something called "beam shoe with slotted steel plate and through dowels," but for the life of me, I can't Google a purchasable product. Could one use a simpler angle iron instead as a base and screw it diagonally? That should give minimal beam shoe feeling but still precision and strength?
The simplest solution to the problem with ugly beam shoes is nice beam shoes. These can be relatively easily made from flat steel. A common solution is a 45x45 rule screwed onto the inner bearing beam on which the beams are then laid (notched). The drawback is that you weaken the beams in a place where they really shouldn't be weakened. In any case, you should calculate that. A third variant is to screw some form of steel profile to the underside of the bearing beam on which the beams can rest without notching.
The disadvantage of diagonal screwing in such a situation is the poor precision.
I don't think they can be bought without being custom-made in each individual case, which doesn't have to be hysterically expensive. A lot of advanced constructions with laminated wood are done, especially in countries like Switzerland and Germany. It's possible you could find something on the German market. A joist hanger with slotted steel plate and through-going pegs could look very nice.
Google "balkenschuhe" and you'll get many results. German-owned chains like Hornbach and Bauhaus might be able to bring in products from the German market?
Hmm, I'll have to dust off my school German and check. Thanks!
Jjustusandersson said:
I don't think they are available for purchase and that they need to be custom-made in each individual case, which doesn't need to be hysterically expensive. There are many advanced constructions with glulam, especially in countries like Switzerland and Germany. It's possible that you can find something on the German market. A joist hanger with inlaid steel plate and through dowels could look very nice.
Raising the thread for a similar (same?) problem. I've been considering toe screwing the joists to the carrier beam but hesitate as it seems risky and difficult to screw with, for example, Essve's construction screws (even though it looks entirely feasible). Does anyone have tips on how to make a hidden (or neat) fastening to the carrier beam? Joist hangers are probably(?) ruled out since it slopes a few degrees outward, and the glulam is 42mm. As you can see in the picture, there's no space to place the joists on the carrier beam. I'll have a plastic roof once everything is finished. The frame will be in glulam: carrier beam 56x270 and roof joists 42x180.
Lifting the thread for a similar (same?) problem. I've been considering screwing the studs at an angle against the beam but hesitate as it seems tricky and difficult to screw with, for example, Essve's construction screws (even though it looks entirely feasible). Does anyone have tips on how to make a hidden (or neat) bracket against the beam? Beam hangers probably(?) won't work as it slopes a few degrees outward, and the glulam is 42mm. As you can see in the picture, there is no space to lay the studs on the beam. I will have a plastic roof when everything is complete. The frame will be made of glulam: beam 56x270 and roof studs 42x180.
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When I was going to build such a roof a few years ago, I didn't have any beam hangers at home, and I didn't feel like going out to buy any. So we drilled and screwed all the beams with long screws from the "back," that is, from the side facing the facade. We ended up with quite a large heavy structure, somewhat like a wall, which we then raised and propped up, fastening it against the facade.
I'm not sure if I would do it that way again, I wouldn't mind using beam hangers, so I probably would have gone out to buy some.
But it held, which was proven when *a significant amount* of wet snow accumulated on the roof and a spot where we had slightly too large a span on the open part bent down like a banana by 30 cm... I shoveled off the snow and that section went back up and became straight and nice again. And the "screws from the back" held up fine too.
A few years ago when I was going to build such a talk, I didn't have any joist hangers at home, and I didn't feel like going and buying them. So we drilled and screwed into all the beams with long screws from the "backside," that is, from the side that faces the facade. So we had a pretty large heavy construction, sort of like a wall, which we raised up and then braced and screwed into the facade.
Not sure if I would do it that way again, I wouldn't mind using joist hangers, so I probably would have gone and bought them.
But it held, which was proven when *a lot* of wet snow had collected on the roof and a place where we had a bit too large a span on the open part bent down like a banana 30 cm... I shoveled away the snow, and that part went up and became straight and nice again. And the "screws from the backside" held up fine too.
Thanks for the response. I am considering gluing and screwing a 45x70 onto the beam that the roof rafters rest on. These rafters are glulam with the dimension 42x180. The joist hangers are 45mm...
Boussard said:
