Gutter brackets

[sventus]

There seem to be several different ways to attach the hooks to the gutters; some attach to the underlayment, some to the bottom battens, and some to the fascia board. Is there any way that is "better" than another? There are different hooks, I understand that.

 

[Mats Lj]

sventus

Is there a way that is "better" than any other?

If by better you mean it's easy and quick to mount, then the so-called compact hook that is screwed into a vertically mounted fascia board is better. In terms of strength, the traditional hook that is bent with a 2-3mm difference to get the slope and is attached to a diagonally split 75x225 feels best. Attaching the hook only to the raw pine seems too weak.

 

[Mikael_L]

There seem to be several different methods to attach the hooks to the gutters, some attach to the roof sheathing, some to the bottom batten, and some to the fascia board. Is there a method that is "better" than another? I understand there will be different hooks.

It depends on many factors, and what is meant by "better."
If hooks are an afterthought and the roof is already finished, then a hook in the fascia board is better because you avoid tearing everything down and rebuilding.
For example, SSK, KFK, K11, and K07.
If you aim for the smallest possible distance between the tiles and the gutter so you don't see directly into the roof edge, then K16/K21 screwed into the bottom batten is best.

http://www.lindab.com/se/Documents/...all PDF/Takavvattning monteringsanvisning.pdf

Different carpenters do it in different ways. It's also impossible to incorporate all installation instructions correctly everywhere.
Either you skip achieving the distance between roof tile and gutter as specified by Plannja, or you skip installing the drip edge as Mataki specifies it should be installed.

Besides Lindab, there is also Plannja (maybe more)
http://www.plannja.com/upload/SE Plannja Monteringsanv 2012 ny.pdf

 

[sventus]

Thanks for the response! I should probably include the hooks from the start then.

 

[Mikael_L]

This is how some people do it.

http://villaberghflood.blogspot.com/2010/08/perfekta-hangrannor.html
But then the hook is only attached to the tongue-and-groove sheathing (possibly the roof truss under the sheathing as well)
the hook is not very firmly attached.
The distance between the gutter and the roof tiles becomes large = you can see the battens below the tiles from the ground. If you paint the battens black, they are not as visible, which is what I did on the garage after it irritated me enough.
I don’t really know where they intended to put the flashing ... :O Maybe in the main batten.

This is how very many do it!
http://www.tengsjo.se/TakMaj2011/slides/PICT0543.html

Here the gutter is very close to the roof tiles, which many think looks best (if you want, otherwise you bend the hooks longer). Any condensation under the tiles and melting drift snow is not caught by the flashing and the gutter but drips down instead.
The hook is attached to a properly sized last batten. And if something needs replacing, you don't need to tear off more of the roof than a few tiles and battens.

 

[Mikael_L]

There are variants with takfotskil also.

 

[Forbo]

Installed Lindab's adjustable hooks this weekend on the fascia board. Fairly smooth and works well afterward. But in hindsight, it would obviously have been absolutely smoothest to install the gutter hooks while laying the roof... and the traditional gutter hooks probably hold up to significantly more load. (Fascia board + adjustable hook easily handled me hanging on them with my 80 kilos... so it's not that fragile after all...)

 

[sventus]

Shouldn't the hook mounts be recessed and a footplate placed over them? As I said, there are apparently many ways.

 

[Mrnikky]

Is this thread active? Renovating a roof where the gutters are screwed into the metal sheet. There's no wood to screw into and thus no sensible way to get a good "slope" on the gutters. Anyone with ideas on how a solution might look?

 

[Rickard.]

Is this thread active? Renovating a roof where the gutters are screwed into the sheet metal. There's no wood to screw into, and thus no sensible way to get a good "slope" on the gutters. Anyone with ideas on how a solution might look?

Now I've seen that you've written in several threads, and I guess that others, just like me, don't understand what you're talking about at all. Start a new thread with more info and a couple of pictures, and you'll have a much better chance of getting help.