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35 replies
Building inner wall with ventilation
Hello everyone!
I'm new here and hope to get some help from all the experts
.
I'm planning to build a new internal wall with a door in my house. I plan to build the wall with steel tracks on the floor and ceiling, vertical wooden studs (45x70), insulation, OSB + drywall. I will also install a door.
My questions now:
Thanks in advance!
/Clay
I'm new here and hope to get some help from all the experts
I'm planning to build a new internal wall with a door in my house. I plan to build the wall with steel tracks on the floor and ceiling, vertical wooden studs (45x70), insulation, OSB + drywall. I will also install a door.
My questions now:
- I plan to install a ventilation grille above the door. How should I approach this? Should I build the entire wall with insulation, mount the door, then cut out a hole above the door, remove parts of the insulation, and insert the grille? Or should I build a 'box'/'duct' directly above the door (inside the wall above the door), put up OSB + drywall, and insert the grille?
- I am thinking of not screwing/nailing the steel track into the floor but want to use double-sided tape. I've read on the forum that people recommend 'EPDM-gummi' under the floor track for soundproofing effect. I've googled EPDM-gummi but can't find a suitable place to buy it. Does anyone have a tip?
Thanks in advance!
/Clay
depends a bit on how you make the "duct". we most often do it after the wall is there, sometimes even when it's painted.C claym said:Hello everyone!
I'm new here and hope to get some help from all the experts.
I'm planning to build a new interior wall with a door in my house. I'm thinking of building the wall with metal tracks on the floor and ceiling, vertical wooden studs (45x70), insulation, OSB + drywall. I will also install a door.
My questions now are:
- I was thinking of installing a ventilation grille above the door. How should I think about this? Should I build the entire wall with insulation, mount the door, then cut out a hole above the door, remove parts of the insulation, and insert the grille? Or should I build a 'box'/'duct' directly above the door (inside the wall above the door), install OSB+drywall, and insert the grille?
- I wasn't planning to screw/nail the metal track to the floor but want to use double-sided tape. I've read on the forum that people recommend 'EPDM-gummi' under the floor track for a soundproofing effect. I've googled EPDM-gummi but can't find a suitable place to buy it. Does anyone have a tip?
Thanks in advance!
/Clay
wouldn't use double-sided when you have a door in it.
Examples of soundproofing suggestions: https://www.xlbygg.se/vanersborg/so...reglar/kantprofil-ac-70-55-langd-3000mm-23832
Double-sided tape can be used, as long as the studs are tightened between the floor/ceiling. A door at home usually does not face such stress that it becomes a problem there. Worse with heavy steel doors that slam shut.
Double-sided tape can be used, as long as the studs are tightened between the floor/ceiling. A door at home usually does not face such stress that it becomes a problem there. Worse with heavy steel doors that slam shut.
it will become unstable. there's a greater chance it won't move if you've had wooden studs under tension.C claym said:
Thank you for all the answers!
The reason I wrote not to screw the floor track (only screw the ceiling track) was to avoid getting hpl in the pine floor. Another reason (which may not be sensible?) is that because the floor is floating, I was worried about screwing. That is, worried if I fasten the track and if the floor moves, it would cause cracks. Maybe that's not correct?
danielsvea: Regarding the soundproof steel track, I assume that the link you sent, it's the kind used for floor and ceiling and that 45x70 wooden studs 'fit' in it?
/Clay
The reason I wrote not to screw the floor track (only screw the ceiling track) was to avoid getting hpl in the pine floor. Another reason (which may not be sensible?) is that because the floor is floating, I was worried about screwing. That is, worried if I fasten the track and if the floor moves, it would cause cracks. Maybe that's not correct?
danielsvea: Regarding the soundproof steel track, I assume that the link you sent, it's the kind used for floor and ceiling and that 45x70 wooden studs 'fit' in it?
/Clay
I understand you, but just using tape won't hold in the long run. Wooden studs fit into the edge profile.C claym said:Thanks for all the replies!
The reason I mentioned not screwing the floor stud (only the ceiling stud) was to avoid holes in the pine floor. Another reason (which might not be valid?) is that since the floor is floating, I was worried about screwing. That is, worried if I fasten the stud and if the floor moves, it might cause cracks. Maybe that's not correct?
danielsvea: Regarding the sound-insulated steel stud, I assume the link you sent is for the type used in the floor and ceiling and that 45x70 wooden studs 'fit' in it?
/Clay
exactly.C claym said:
forget the idea with just metal rules.
so it might work well with double-sided tape. though preferably reinforcement at the door with at least one screw on the inside of the rules.
The initial idea was to only use metal for the floor and ceiling tracks, while all vertical studs would be made of trä and put under tension. The floor track would simply be placed on the floor with double-sided tape underneath, held in place by the tape and the tension from the vertical trä studs.
oki. I just don't want your wall to become crooked after you've closed the door a few times.C claym said: