Hello good people!

Now it's starting to get cold outside and thoughts of a stove are returning. We've decided on the stove, but the layout of the living room limits our placement options. The solution will be a bench that serves as support for both the stove and as a TV bench with space for all sorts of electronics. See attached image.

So now to the purely technical building part. My first thought is leca that is plastered and painted. A simple construction without frills. But then I encounter problem number 1.
The leca blocks I find are only 60 cm wide. This would mean that the transverse/overlapping leca blocks would limit the wood/electronics compartments to a width of 40 cm (calculated on a 10 cm overlap). According to the attached image, only one compartment is about 40 cm wide. The other compartments look to be about 80-100 cm wide, which is clearly more attractive. How do I solve this easiest? Are there longer leca blocks? Can leca blocks be joined? Laying in reinforcing bars or casting U-blocks?

In summary, how do I build a bench that resembles the one in the image as simply as possible?

I'm completely new to this.

Have a great weekend and thanks in advance! :cool:

Living room with a modern fireplace, wooden support bench, storage for firewood and electronics, a beige sofa, and rustic decor.
 
Claes Sörmland
I have used flat iron under tiles for this purpose.
 
Thank you for the quick response! What advantages in construction do I get from brick? Leca undeniably feels easier to work with for someone like me. Flat steel and leca, is that a combo that can work just as well? I'm thinking that the flat steel could then be concealed in the Leca's groove, and in this way be embedded and hidden.
 
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I have looked at the beams before, at Beijer they cost from 995 SEK/m. Which makes them incredibly expensive. :confused:
 
Then it will be some angle iron instead ;)

Weld a frame with angle iron that is 50*50mm and brick in the blocks for example.
 
Claes Sörmland
I have read that lecablock should not be exposed to high heat because the clinker beads are cement-bound. The cement simply cannot withstand heat and the block crumbles.

Does this apply in practice when placing a stove on lecablock? Does the stove get so hot underneath that the lecablock ages quickly?
 
No, there's no danger with such a stove. It can stand on a metal sheet on a wooden floor, i.e. the underside will never become warmer than 50-60c normally.

Then you build chimneys with cement mortar, even if they weather a bit, we're talking about 25-30 years between renovations unless water leaks into the chimney?!
 
Claes Sörmland said:
I have read that lecablock should not be exposed to high heat because the clinker balls are cement-bound. The cement simply does not tolerate heat and the block crumbles.

Does this apply in practice when you put a stove on lecablock? Does the stove get so hot underneath that the lecablocks age quickly?
Now I can't answer generally. But the stove that is in the picture, as well as the one we chose, has a built-in firewall and is approved to be placed directly on wood.
But an answer as to what generally applies would be appreciated
 
Could Weber's Bi-stål be an option? Let the horizontal blocks rest on Bi-stål to finish with Bi-stål at the top, which is then built in?
http://www.weber.se/leca-registred-produkter/produkter/leca-registred-tillbehor/bistal.html

If you let the stove, like in the picture, rest on lecablock without a joint, and assume that the other compartments should handle a load of about 100 kg (a sitting person).

The steel + mortar/plaster between and around all the blocks might be strong enough?

None of my nearby building suppliers provide flat iron, haven't had the time to check with a sheet metal worker/smith.
 
Doubtful, at least if it only needs to be polished.
 
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