Hello !
maybe the dumbest question on the forum...

but I'm working on a small extension and I'm going to lay 45x220 floor beams and wondering if I should use 90-degree angle brackets to attach them or nail diagonally down into the beam into the sill ??
//N
 
Joist hanger. It's best if the beam simply hangs on the sill.
 
Borrowing myself into this thread, I have a question on the same "theme" namely, hope it's OK with the thread creator.

I'm planning to attach the floor joists to joist hangers. Underneath, I have excavated and laid sand + vapor barrier plastic. In the middle of the joists, we are reinforcing with a low wall of lecablock. The floor will be pine planks. To the question: While we're at it, isn't it a good idea to add some form of insulation as well? What do you have under your floors?
 
Wood shavings. Cheap and decent insulation. Sprinkle a little lime, and the mouse doesn't like it.
Eco fiber. Expensive and good.
 
Joist hanger. It's best if the beam just hangs on the sill
well, the idea is to place the floor joists on the sill, it's pretty tricky to get the right height otherwise...

I'm planning to attach the floor joists in joist hangers. Underneath, I've dug out and laid sand + age-resistant plastic. In the middle of the joists, we are reinforcing with a low wall of lecablock. The floor will be pine planks. To the question: While we're at it, isn't it a good idea to add some form of insulation as well? What do you have under your floors?
how thick are your floor joists? yes, I think so, it will be cold otherwise.

in the past, they used sawdust, but I will under each joist (45x220) attach a 22x95 so it becomes like an upside-down T.
between each beam, it's CC (center to center) 60 cm where there will be a layer of 45 mm rigid board insulation, then a layer of 170 mm insulation before the floor chipboard comes...
 
Don't forget to place a 22+95, you can use 22+45 sideways as well. Under the upside-down T. It holds in blind botten, your hårdskive isolering. Otherwise, everything might settle on the bottom.
 
how thick are your floor joists?

45*145.

So we could very well do as you suggest, I'll consider that solution. It seems good. Thanks for the tip!
 
how thick are your floor joists?
we had to use 45x220 since we needed to match the height of the current house, otherwise, we would have used 45x195.

Don't forget to add a 22+95, it's possible to use 22+45 across as well. Under the upside-down T. It holds the blind bottom, your hardboard insulation. Otherwise, everything can settle at the bottom.
a question, what should one use as a blind bottom otherwise? I'm not sure if our hard insulation boards are made for it, I've read about asphalt board...

from what I understand, you should have a vapor barrier at the bottom against the crawl space, i.e., the insulation is on some form of "plastic"
or am I completely off base... ??

does anyone know about the nailing? angle iron or just nails??
 
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You should place an edge beam at the very end - then you can nail straight through it with a couple of 5" nails into the floor joists.

The subfloor can be built from special cross-bottom boards designed for a center-to-center distance of 60cm. Otherwise, it's very good to use beveled foam plastic screwed across the joists - but then of course you need to be able to screw from underneath once the joists are in place.
 
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You're putting an edge beam on the outermost
?? explain what you mean...
is it nailed down to the sill at the outermost towards the "outer wall" and then place the end of the floor joist against this and nail it... is that correct?

hmm damn such a simple question, I'm just getting more confused...
 
Hello. Now you should start using the right word for the right thing. A regel stands upright. Balk is a beam and lies down. Just so you understand each other.
 
Yes, you place it across the floor joists at the outermost and make the floor joists 45mm shorter than the outer edge of the sill - then nail all the floor joists cc60 into the edge beam. It becomes incredibly stable as the joists find it harder to twist sideways when nailed in their entire height at the ends.

We usually don't use angle irons, just nail the edge beam here and there into the sill. Where is it going to go once you have the house on it ;) Of course, there's no harm if you still want to install irons.
 
Träig snickare said:
Hi. Now you should start using the right word for the right thing. a post stands up. Balk is= beam and lies down. Just so you understand each other.
Call it kantbjälke if you want then - even though it's not called limträbjälke - and they stand up.. :)
 
I am trying to help you. there were so many???? that nikke wrote. Then I wrote that balk equals beam. I know it's called laminated beam and they usually lie down.
 
We usually don't use angle irons but just nail down the edge beam here and there into the sill; where is everything going to go once you get the house on it? Of course, it's not wrong if you still want to use iron though.
good stuff!! got it,

Hi. Now you should start using the right word for the right thing. A rule stands up. Balk = beam and lies down. Just so you understand each other.
thanks! good clarification for a novice...

This should work itself out... I'll probably come up with more small questions later on.
 
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