I need to attach brackets for downspouts on my extended upper floor. It is built on a wooden frame and plastered according to the Serporoc method, i.e. exterior gypsum-insulation-thick plaster. Unfortunately, no plates were attached for downspout brackets during plastering. What should I do now?
There are pipe clamps for "stone houses" that are nailed into the facade. This seems quite risky to me, even if I assume pre-drilling.
The other option is with screw fastenings, which are made to be used on wooden houses.
What is recommended and how can I best ensure moisture protection? Also fill the hole with silicone/Sika?
Help!
There are pipe clamps for "stone houses" that are nailed into the facade. This seems quite risky to me, even if I assume pre-drilling.
The other option is with screw fastenings, which are made to be used on wooden houses.
What is recommended and how can I best ensure moisture protection? Also fill the hole with silicone/Sika?
Help!
Smart alek
· östergötland
· 2 668 posts
If it is real thick plaster, then stensvep is no problem... but pre-drill at a slight angle so that any water drips outward and does not run into the wall.
Must you have the brackets right there? a strong fastening in the gutter or in the eaves, and then in the air down to the old brackets, there is no load on the downpipe other than the weight. screw the joints so nothing twists.
Thanks for the reply! I'm not quite sure about the definition of thick plaster. It says that in the description anyway. The company put plaster mesh at a distance from the insulation boards. I would guess it's maybe 2-3cm thick, then there's a few mm of colored plaster on top of that. I assume it's possible to nail into it since it's metal mesh reinforced. Just so nervous about getting cracks and issues when you've spent three-quarters of a million on new plaster...
I see that my old mounts are also attached with some sort of plug. Maybe a smart idea, or unnecessary?
Thanks, but unfortunately, we have switched from a gable to a mono-pitched roof and the old brackets can't be reused. In the original facade, however, I'm not afraid to drive in a few nails. It's worked there beforeP Plutus said:
You have thick plaster.
Just hammer in a long dowel, choose the length according to the conditions.
https://www.bygghemma.se/hus-och-by...Q-YqyS91ylu14W-5O3xOIDk6gO944QtBoCVHMQAvD_BwE
And pipe clamp
https://www.bygghemma.se/hus-och-bygg/tak/takavvattning/stupror/rorsvep-wijo-for-sten/p-653835
However, you can pre-drill with a concrete bit through the plaster before driving in the dowel.
Why would this be risky?
That's how it's done.
You can't fasten in the plaster, and of course not in the insulation.
If a drop or a hundred drops of water enter the hole, it is absorbed by the lime in the mortar, as with all houses.
If you're worried, seal with trans clear tec7.
Or a similar product.
Just hammer in a long dowel, choose the length according to the conditions.
https://www.bygghemma.se/hus-och-by...Q-YqyS91ylu14W-5O3xOIDk6gO944QtBoCVHMQAvD_BwE
And pipe clamp
https://www.bygghemma.se/hus-och-bygg/tak/takavvattning/stupror/rorsvep-wijo-for-sten/p-653835
However, you can pre-drill with a concrete bit through the plaster before driving in the dowel.
Why would this be risky?
That's how it's done.
You can't fasten in the plaster, and of course not in the insulation.
If a drop or a hundred drops of water enter the hole, it is absorbed by the lime in the mortar, as with all houses.
If you're worried, seal with trans clear tec7.
Or a similar product.
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