Anchoring railing in terrace construction

[Jesper Ronn]

The house in question has a large terrace that rests on wooden beams. These, in turn, lie on a sheet metal roof. A 20-meter-long railing with glass sections is mounted on posts that are screwed into the decking from above. The construction is unstable and needs to be redone. New galvanized industrial-type posts will be purchased. These have two-point bolt fastening (joist hanger type). How would you achieve the best stability? Very grateful for tips. Attaching pictures below of the railing and construction.

 

[Jesper Ronn]

The house in question has a large terrace resting on wooden beams. These, in turn, rest on a metal roof. A 20-meter long railing with glass panels is mounted on posts screwed into the decking from above. The construction is unstable and needs to be redone. New galvanized industrial-type posts will be purchased. These have two-point bolt fastenings (beam shoe-type).
How would you attach them for the best stability? Very grateful for tips. Attaching pictures below of the railing and construction.

 

[Jesper Ronn]

 

[Jesper Ronn]

 

[Trollskidan]

The problem is that they are far too poor at screwing long straight railings in. It should probably be at least double 145 that are anchored under the decking.
Most people think it's the railing that is weak.
Put up the railing, reinforce underneath.

 

[Jesper Ronn]

The problem is that they are too weak for mounting long straight railings. Should probably be at least double 145s anchored under the decking. Most people think it's the railing that's weak. Put up the railing, reinforce underneath.

Thanks for the response. If I understand you correctly, you're suggesting fastening to a thicker beam at the front edge. It should be noted that you need a gap of 2-3 cm to allow leaves, water, etc. to drain from the metal roof into the gutter, so I'm doubtful it can be done without re-framing the entire terrace. I think the deck rests on 145 beams, but I'm not entirely sure. It should still significantly increase stability if you saw the decking to shape, go down, and fasten on the side of the beam compared to the current construction, right?

 

[Trollskidan]

Thank you for the response. If I understand you correctly, you are suggesting that the fastening occur in a thicker beam at the front. It should be noted that there needs to be a gap of 2-3 cm so that leaves, water, etc., can drain from the metal roof into the gutter, so I am doubtful whether it can be done without re-beaming the entire terrace. I think it's a 145 beam that the decking rests on, but I'm not entirely sure. It should still significantly increase stability if you shape cut the decking, go down, and do the fastening on the side of the beam compared to today's construction?

Thank you for the response. If I understand you correctly, you are suggesting that the fastening occur in a thicker beam at the front. It should be noted that there needs to be a gap of 2-3 cm so that leaves, water, etc., can drain from the metal roof into the gutter, so I am doubtful whether it can be done without re-beaming the entire terrace. I think it's a 145 beam that the decking rests on, but I'm not entirely sure. It should still significantly increase stability if you shape cut the decking, go down, and do the fastening on the side of the beam compared to today's construction?

Don't think so because it's the beam that is flexing.

 

[Jesper Ronn]

I don't think the reglarna are sagging. As it is today, the attachment is above the decking. Not even sure that the posts, other than possibly some, are screwed into the regel. Others: How would you have done it?

 

[Jesper Ronn]