Hello.
Like so many others, I am going to furnish a room in the basement of my townhouse. The house was built in 1946, the basement is 90% below ground and not re-drained.
I will most likely refer to the book "Husets ABC," Ica bokförlag. The authors suggest using steel studs, foam board, and finally drywall. So far, so good. However, they want to build the wall directly against the basement wall, and that's where you "experts" come in. I remember that there should be an air gap between the insulation and the wall. What do you think? Does it matter when it doesn't involve organic materials directly against the wall?
Thanks for the response
jeppe
Like so many others, I am going to furnish a room in the basement of my townhouse. The house was built in 1946, the basement is 90% below ground and not re-drained.
I will most likely refer to the book "Husets ABC," Ica bokförlag. The authors suggest using steel studs, foam board, and finally drywall. So far, so good. However, they want to build the wall directly against the basement wall, and that's where you "experts" come in. I remember that there should be an air gap between the insulation and the wall. What do you think? Does it matter when it doesn't involve organic materials directly against the wall?
Thanks for the response
jeppe
An air gap is good, but there should be significantly more than you might have in mind. I actually think you should completely remove the foam plastic. Insulation on the inside is like asking for trouble. Insulate outside the basement wall instead, or don't do it at all.
I don't think ICA's solution is good.
Here's what you should do:
http://www.isola.se/pdf/Insida Kallarvagg.pdf
The insulation in such a solution probably doesn't significantly reduce energy consumption, but it provides a warmer surface on the inner wall, which feels warmer/more comfortable. (Formally described with the term Directed Operative Temperature, which is technically mumbo jumbo. Think about how it feels to sit in front of a window, it's the same phenomenon.)
Choose a solution with as little insulation as possible. And then fix the outside.
Here's what you should do:
http://www.isola.se/pdf/Insida Kallarvagg.pdf
The insulation in such a solution probably doesn't significantly reduce energy consumption, but it provides a warmer surface on the inner wall, which feels warmer/more comfortable. (Formally described with the term Directed Operative Temperature, which is technically mumbo jumbo. Think about how it feels to sit in front of a window, it's the same phenomenon.)
Choose a solution with as little insulation as possible. And then fix the outside.
Thank you for the answers.
The housing cooperative intends to redo the drainage in the near future, but until then I am looking for a solution that allows me to furnish the basement. I will ponder further.
The housing cooperative intends to redo the drainage in the near future, but until then I am looking for a solution that allows me to furnish the basement. I will ponder further.
There is a greater risk of problems if he doesn't use the foam. Foam doesn't mold, but the backside of gypsum does.MathiasS said:
If you only have an air gap, there is a high risk of mold growth on the back of the gypsum due to the humidity, but you can replace the gypsum with mineral boards, though it is costly compared to having foam first and then gypsum.MathiasS said:
how should one ventilate the wall in general? drill holes in the metal - at the bottom and top or what do you mean?
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